Ingredients in Focus: Vine Thief’s Smell-The-Taste Technology
Exploring the groundbreaking science behind the strawberry scent in the newest Liberty LBTY. fragrance
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Ingredients in Focus: Vine Thief’s Smell-The-Taste Technology
Exploring the groundbreaking science behind the strawberry scent in the newest Liberty LBTY. fragrance
Inhale a spritz of Liberty LBTY.’s new fragrance, Vine Thief, and you might recognize some familiar notes. Orris, leather, vanilla and… strawberry jam? This cheeky fragrance contains a revolutionary new ingredient, developed using DSM-Firmenich’s Smell-The-Taste™ technology. Here, we speak to DSM-Firmenich’s Technical Perfumer, Albane Furet, on how she developed this extraordinary ingredient. The Master Perfumer behind Vine Thief, Honorine Blanc, also shares why she decided to use the ingredient in Vine Thief, and how the technology enhances the overall experience of the scent.
When did DMS-Firmenich begin working on the Smell-The-Taste™ technology?
Albane Furet: Our Smell-The-Taste™ program started in 2009. I started working on it in 2019. As a trained flavorist-turned-technical perfumer, I was able to bring a new perspective to the development of our solutions.
How does it differ from traditional fragrance methods?
Albane: The development process takes into consideration a flavourist-based approach. This means that when creating we first focus on the taste in the mouth and the sensations and texture delivered – and then on the scent.
What was the first taste you developed in this way?
Albane: The first one I created in this way when I joined DSM-Firmenich, was our Caviar Smell-The-Taste™. It brings a new type of marine note – more animalic, with a creamy oily texture. Caviar tastes like the sea, with a briny salty flavour and has a distinct pop of texture. When you have caviar in your mouth it’s an explosion. High quality caviar often has a smooth, buttery or creamy mouthfeel that enhances its overall taste. The Caviar Smell-The-Taste™ has an umami taste sensation with a clean finish and subtle minerality.
Liberty LBTY.’s Vine Thief contains the strawberry jam Smell-The-Taste™. What was the process of turning the taste into a fragrance ingredient?
Albane: In this case, it started with a tasting of this iconic jam to evaluate its profile – the aroma, the flavour, the sensations and the mouthfeel. We combined this with an analytical perspective, looking at flavour formulations for strawberry jam, and the feedback of perfumers. This provided a foundation for me to find the right balance between the figurative effect and the sophistication of the fragrance profile.
Why did you choose to develop the taste of strawberry jam, instead of just a strawberry?
Albane: I chose to develop the taste of strawberry jam to create something which conveyed an element of nostalgia and the sense of playfulness, comfort and reassurance that we remember from childhood. By using strawberry jam as the ‘muse’ for this Smell-The-Taste™, it adds an addictive gourmandise element to the fruitiness.
Why did you decide to use it in Vine Thief?
Honorine Blanc: I used this Smell-The-Taste™ to give a new, delicious texture to the sensual addiction of the fragrance. Its playful sophistication provides a happy contrast to the mysterious elements brought about by the woody notes.
What is the effect or impact that an Smell-The-Taste™ ingredient has on the fragrance wearer?
Honorine: Smell-The-Taste™ offers a sensual texture to fragrances that, for example, naturals do not have. This gives a new succulent dimension that awakens your senses and unites fantasy with reality.
What other ingredients or smells/ tastes have you developed using this technology, or are you working on currently?
Albane: Chantilly, Cappuccino, Black Cherry and even Tomato Juice! Some of our next Smell-The-Taste™ releases include more regional dessert inspirations as well as various expressions on trending cocktails. More to come soon!
